PEARLS - jewels of the sea

Rising to the surface, the oysters collect dew droplets and transform them into peals.

Obviously that's not how pearls are formed, but in ancient Roman times that was certainly the belief. Even the revered philosopher Pliny promoted the theory that the quality of the pearl depended on the quality of the dew the oyster shell received. Pearls are actually formed from the secretions of calcium carbonate which oysters and mussels gain from water they draw into their shells. Many gems have come in and gone out of fashion, but the pearl has always retained its high status. Because of its pale, shimmering hue, the pearl has lunar, and therefore feminine, associations. In Chinese tradition it symbolises"genius in obscurity", the pearl hidden inside the oyster.

Pearls also symbolise patience, purity and peace. Owing to their translucent quality they also stand for tears of sorrow or joy. No doubt, joy if you own some, and sorrow if you don't.

Shark attack, blindness and paralysis - Its a little easier to collect pearls now.

The oldest surviving necklace is on display in the Louvre Museum in Paris. It was, 2000 or so years ago, the property of a Persian princess.
It is made of pearls that were no doubt taken in the Persian Gulf where the divers ran (or should we say swam) the risk of shark attacks, blindness and paralysis as many as 50 times a day in their quest.
But the appreciation of pearls wasn't restricted to this section of the globe. Evidence is found in early Chinese burial grounds mention pearls as a tribute. In fact their oldest known documentation occurs in the Shu Chung scriptures of Confucius where it is written freshwater pearls were presented as valued gifts over 4,000 years ago.
Pearl Necklaces have been uncovered from ruins of Monte Alban in Mexico. They have also been recovered from excavations in Peru that show the Pre-Inca people's love of the pearls' lustre.
From this we can see pearls have enjoyed man's patronage much longer than even diamonds and rubies.
Many of the portraits of famous European women show them wearing pearls. Queen Elizabeth I was particularly keen on them. This is of particular interest as the pearl is often regarded as the Queen of gems, the diamond being King.

Determining the value of a pearl.

There are a number of factors to be taken into account when assessing a single pearl or a strand of them.
These are Size, Shape, Colour, Lustre, Skin and if in a strand, Matching.
Size. The larger the pearl, the rarer it is. The rarer it is, the more valuable it is.
Shape. This is a critical factor in its value. The ideal shape should be the perfect sphere. But fashion can dictate otherwise. The semi-round, the semi-baroque, baroque and fishtail baroque are other very acceptable shapes. In fact, during the Renaissance the baroque was very highly prized, often above the sphere. Nowadays, because they are less popular they are less expensive. But fashion could quickly change that.
Colour. The colour of pearls vary quite significantly. The most preferred colour in Australia is silvery pink followed by silvery white, white, silvery cream, creamy pink and cream. As pearls are displayed on the skin, it's understandable that different races of people prefer slightly different colours of pearl.
Lustre. This is the glow on the surface. You should not confuse it with the slightly iridescent colours that seem to be under the skin of the pearl.
Skin. Like in everything, perfection is preferred. The more blemishes, the lower the quality.
Matching. This is obviously important when determining the quality of a strand of pearls.

Salt Water Varieties.

Australian South Sea pearls are rare and very valuable. They come in colours ranging from white, silver and gold to rose.
The Burmese South Sea cultured pearl is similar to the Australian but the colour is generally a little warmer.
The Indonesian variety is smaller but creamier then the Australian.
The Tahitian South Sea pearl is quite different. Its colours range from soft grey to black hues of reds, blues and greens.
The Akoya is probably the most familiar cultured pearl. They Possess a warm colour and come from coastal Japan.
The Mabe pearl's hemispherical shape makes it highly suitable for earrings, rings and brooches.

Fresh water pearls.

These particular pearls aren't cultivated in oysters, but in molluscs in lakes and rivers in China. Their shape can be elongated and their appearance milky translucent. They are generally quite expensive.

Natural, Cultured or Fake. Which is which?

A cultured pearl is not an artificial pearl or synthetic pearl. It is still produced by a pearl oyster and by normal processes of pearl growth. The only difference between natural pearl and the cultured variety is that the nucleus has been inserted into the oyster to enable the oyster to have a good start. It ensures a larger and more evenly shaped pearl and is produced in a shorter period of time.
Pearls that were taken from the waters in ancient times were natural. Today they are very, very rare. On the other hand, imitation pearls are made from glass or shell beads which are then coated.
The easiest way to identify the difference between imitation pearls and the real ones is the tooth test. When you rub a real pearl, natural pearl or cultured pearl across your teeth, the pearl will feel slightly gritty. Do the same with a fake and it's likely to feel smooth and slippery.

This test should obviously be taken with great care as the enamel of the teeth is considerably harder than the surface of a pearl. Damage to the pearl can easily occur.

Information on how to care for pearls is contained in our section on the care of pearls.