Cultured
Pearls
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A cultured
pearl is a pearl formed by an oyster, composed of concentric layers of
a crystalline substance called nacre deposited around an irritant purposely
placed in the oysters body.
Natural pearls
are formed by deposits of nacre around an irritant which accidentally
lodges within the body of an oyster.
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Types of pearls
Akoya. The most
familiar type of cultured pearl, grown in true pearl oysters off the coast of
Japan. Akoya pearls are known for their lovely orient and warm colour. They
rarely grow more than 9mm in size.
Mabe. Large hemispherical
cultured pearls grown against the inside shells of oysters instead of within
the body. Less expensive than regular round cultured pearls and, because of
their hemispherical shape, they are usually mounted in such jewellery as earrings,
rings and brooches.
Biwa. A fresh water
pearl cultivated in a mollusk only in Japan's lake Biwa. They are smoother and
more lustrous than fresh water pearls from China. Production is now very limited
to pollution in the area.
Fresh water. Pearls
cultivated in mollusks, not oysters, found in fresh water lakes and rivers.
Fresh water pearls generally are elongated in shape and have a milky translucent
appearance. Their wide range of interesting shapes and colours make up in fashion
appeal make up in their relatively low value. In China, shape and lustre are
rapidly improving.
Keshi. Pearls which
form naturally in many cultured pearl oysters both South Seas and Akoya. They
also come in a variety of colours, shapes and sizes.
South Sea Pearls
Australian. Large
cultured peals (10mm and larger) grown in larger oysters (called Pinctada Maxima)
in warm waters of the coasts of Australia (for example Broome Pearls). These
pearls are found in a variety of colours, varying from white, silver and gold
to rose. Australian South Sea pearls are generally rare and valuable.
Burmese. Large
cultured pearls (10mm and larger) grown in large oysters off the coasts of Burma.
Generally warmer in colour than Australian cultured pearls, they are rare and
valuable.
Indonesian. Large
cultured pearls (8mm and larger) generally smaller in size and creamier in colour
than their Australian counterparts.
Tahitian. Larger
cultured pearls (10mm and larger) which are grown in large oysters (Pinctada
Margaritifera-Black Lipped) off the islands of French Polynesia. Colours range
from soft grey to black hues of reds, blues and greens.
When choosing
cultured pearls
Look for lustre
and orient in the shadow are of the pearl, not in the area upon which the light
is shining. Colour tones should be clear not dull or muddy, watch out for cracks,
chips or disfiguring blemishes.
In addition, all
pearls in a strand should blend well together, particularly to lustre, orient
and colour. Role a strand of pearls along a flat surface to determine if all
pearls are strong through their exact centres. All pearls should roll evenly,
without an eccentric wobble. Buy the best pearls you can afford, then choose
the clasp. A decorative jewelled clasp can always be purchased later.
Selecting necklaces
Choose a cultured
pearl necklace, too, for its effect on your appearance and personality. Long
necklaces are informal and versatile while short necklaces can be demure and
sophisticated. Choker necklets enhance a long neck and a longer strand slenderise
and appear to elongate the neck. For fair skinned women, roseate hued pearls
are most flattering while cream and gold coloured pearls set off darker skin
tones best. Here is a guide to necklace lengths and terminology:
| Choker |
16"
(40cm) in length. Should nestle around the base of the neck in a single
or multiple strands. |
| Princess |
18"
(45cm) in length. Half way between a choker and matinee length. |
| Matinee |
24"
(60cm) in length. Should fall to the top of the cleavage. |
| Opera |
32-36"
(81-91cm) in length. Should fall to the breast bone. |
| Sautoir
or Rope |
Any
pearl necklace longer than opera length. |
| Bib |
Multiple
strands of pearls, each shorter than the one below, nested together in one
necklace. |
| Graduated |
A
necklace composed of pearls which taper downwards in size from larger pearls
in the centre to small pearls at the end. |
| Uniform |
A
necklace which appears to be composed entirely of pearls of the same size,
though there generally is a slight difference in size between the centre
and the end pearls for a more proportionate look. |
Pearls come
in all shapes
Cultured pearls
come in a variety of shapes and the following are the most common:
| Round |
The
pearl is perfectly symmetrical in shape. |
| Semi-Round |
The
pearl is slightly off round in shape. |
| Egg |
The
pearl is an oval shape. |
| Button |
The
pearl is a cushion shape. |
| Semi-Baroque |
The
pearl is irregular in shape. |
| Circled |
This
is a ringed pearl. |
| Heavy
Baroque |
This
pearl is irregular in shape with tails. |
| Mabe |
The
pearl is a half sphere with one flat surface and comes in a variety of shapes
including oval, round, pear and heart etc. |
Information on
caring for you cultured pearl is contained in our caring
for pearls page.